In a country where it's not unusual to start dinner at 23:00, she forbids customers from ordering her tasting menu after 21:30 so her staff can get home at a decent hour. "It doesn't matter if you're the King of Spain or the Pope," she said, adding that diners are informed of the rule when they make their reservations. "People understand schedules. The bank closes at 2pm [14:00], and if you get there at 2:10pm [14:10], the doors are going to be locked. Either we sell ourselves at any price, or we change the current reality."





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