There is something deeply seductive about the remote, ragged possibilities of land's edge. I was journeying deep in New Zealand's South Island, along its brink of raw wilderness called the Catlins, where the blustery winds and waters of Antarctica's Southern Ocean perform alchemy on this curve of Kiwi coastline. This 100km stretch is cosseted by rugged landscapes of concert hall-sized sea caves, rock stacks, blowholes, arches and coves. Its dense temperate forests are laced with walks to fairy-tale waterfalls where bellbirds, wood pigeons, fantails and grey warblers make their presence known.

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