At the opposite end of Koya-san towards the cable car station is Okunoin, a sprawling forested cemetery through which pilgrims follow a 2-km pathway to reach Koya-san’s most sacred point: Kukai’s mausoleum, where he is said to sit in eternal meditation. While walking under Okunoin’s towering cedars, nearly 200,000 tombstones and Buddhist memorials – stupas covered in moss and small jizo statues wearing red bibs – provide a dash of vibrancy in the filtered light. One then reaches the Torodo, a hall in front of the mausoleum, where more than 10,000 lanterns donated by worshippers burn in perpetuity. (Credit: John Steele/Alamy)

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